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Authenticity and Ambiance at Le 404 in Paris
Lauren Smith Janzen

North African restaurant Le 404 has a reputation for late-night diners and waitstaff dancing on the tables, but its atmosphere is welcoming and communal no matter the hour of your reservation. The restaurant radiates warmth, from the open kitchen to the low lighting to the steaming plates of food. Intimate spots of light – thrown by candles on the table, recessed lights, and authentic North African lamps and lanterns – blend with comfortable darkness. Low wooden tables echo the dark wooden beams on the high ceiling. The interplay of darkness and light against the expansive stone walls provides an intimate setting, but the close quarters inspire conversation, even among strangers.

Le 404’s food, like the ambiance, is authentic and comforting. For aperitif, the waitstaff’s recommendation is the refreshing Cocktail 404, a sweet and sour blend of lemon, lime, vodka, and fresh crushed mint. A plate of olives and steamed potatoes, carrots, and celery appeared on the table shortly after the menus, along with a basket of fresh cuts of airy bread. French and Moroccan wines are available by the glass, half-bottle, or bottle, and both the Guerrouane red and the blush Gris de Guerrouane are highly drinkable complements to the meal. The saffron chicken briks (briouat), crispy phyllo triangles filled with moist shredded chicken, replaced the requested shrimp with wild mushroom briks, but the substitution was not disappointing. Le 404’s authentic couscous plates are served in generous portions, which could easily be shared. A couscous 404 crowded the table with a plateful of the fluffy grain; a large bowl of carrots, potatoes, celery, zucchini, and tomato in broth; a second plate for meats; and a condiment platter of raisins, chickpeas, and a spicy sauce. The combination of flavors in the tagines are masterful; a chicken and pear tagine still simmered in the clay dish, and the steamed almonds that garnished it were a treat. To finish, the mint tea, with the traditional pour from above, is a more satisfying option than the common honeyed desserts. The excellent though simple fare of Le 404, coupled with the warm and intimate ambiance, ensures a thoroughly satisfying meal.

Location: Le 404, 69 rue des Gravilliers, 3rd arrondissement (Metro Arts et Métiers).

Reservations: 01.42.74.57.81

Hours: 12 pm to 2:30 pm, 8 pm to 2 am Monday through Friday; 12 pm to 4 pm, 8 pm to 2 am Saturday and Sunday.

Cost: Entrees, 8 euros; Couscous, 14 to 24 euros; Tagines, 14 to 19 euros.

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Written by: Lauren Smith Janzen
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