Summary:
While its reputation might draw visitors who want to sample delights that aren’t so freely (or legally) available at home, Amsterdam has a lot more to offer the visitor than tolerance and a relaxed attitude. This article looks at the big attractions that this small city has to offer.

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Amsterdam is a small city with all that a big city has to offer: architecture, museums, galleries, open spaces, waterways, fine beer… and all in a city that looks wonderful. One of the most pleasant ways to spend time in Amsterdam is to stroll along its narrow streets looking at the impossibly tall, and crooked, houses towering over the green-black waters of the canals. Such a past-time is made all the more pleasant thanks to the relatively little traffic in the city -- at least in terms of the motor car. Everyone either walks or cycles (mainly the latter) in Amsterdam: one of the city’s most extraordinary sights is the multi-story parking lot, adjacent to the main railway terminus, which is filled with hundreds of bicycles; a spectacle not to be missed by anyone who’s ever had to do daily battle with traffic in a country where the motor car rules.

Not that one has to be a cyclist to appreciate Amsterdam though. The real beauty of this city -- for most, anyway -- lies not in its transportation, but in its friendly and welcoming attitude. But while most know of Amsterdam’s stance on soft drugs and prostitution, there’s little to lead the visitor into thinking that they’re in a city where anything goes. There’s nothing seedy about Amsterdam, nor is there anything “in your face” about it: its coffee shops and “smart” shops (where hallucinogenic drugs are sold) are few and discreet, and Amsterdam’s red light district (De Wallen, “the walls” in Dutch) is concentrated in a small part of the old city.

The Amsterdam most visitors know is the old city, contained within a ring of three concentric canals -- the Herengracht, Keizersgracht, and Prinsengracht -- which form a crescent-shaped canal belt. Cruising these waterways on one of the city’s canal boats is an enjoyable enough way to pass the time, and there are some great-looking houseboats on the Prinsengracht: when the light is fading and you can see in through the windows of those that are lit from inside, it’s enough to make one want to sell up and move to life on the Prinsengracht immediately!

When it comes to sightseeing proper, the visitor is truly spoiled: museums, galleries, markets -- the choice is varied and the range wide. Some of the highlights include:

The Anne Frank House: Now a museum, this was the war-time hiding place of the Jewish girl Anne Frank and her family for two years before they were discovered by the Nazis. Anne Frank’s diary was later published to international acclaim. Shelly Winters won an Oscar for her portrayal of a family friend who went into hiding with the Franks in the 1959 movie adaptation of the diary, and then donated it to the museum where it is on display. To avoid the long line-ups get there early (the museum opens at 9am), or buy your tickets online, print them out, and gain admission via a separate entrance.

The Rijksmuseum: The Netherlands’ number one art museum with works by some of the country’s great 17th century painters, including Rembrandt, Vermeer, and Franz Hals. Although parts of the museum are closed for renovation until 2010, there’s still an excellent collection of around 200 masterpieces. Rembrandt’s “The Night Watch” is the museum’s prize piece.

The Van Gogh Museum: A modern, spacious building showcasing the work of the country’s most famous post-impressionist, as well as that of his contemporaries. The museum houses around 200 paintings and 500 drawings by Van Gogh and artists such as Gauguin, Monet, and Toulouse-Lautrec. The museum chronicles Van Gogh’s life through his paintings, from Holland to Paris to Arles. Famous paintings on display include “Sunflowers,” and “The Bedroom.”

Rembrandt’s House: This 17th century house, beautifully restored, is where Rembrandt van Rijn lived and worked. This museum houses an almost-complete collection of the artist’s etchings (250 of the 280 he is known to have made), although not all are on display at the same time. As well as Rembrandt’s work, there’s also his collection of objects ranging from seashells to musical instruments.

Bloemenmarkt: Even if you’re not looking to take home a dozen tulip bulbs, Amsterdam’s flower market is well worth a look. The spectacle of bunch after fat bunch of tulips in every conceivable color is hard to resist to any tourist with a camera. And anyone looking for a souvenir will almost certainly find it here.

When it comes to what to do in the evening, the Dutch typically see eating out in itself as an activity. Take as long as you want over your meal, you won’t be presented with the check until you ask for it. There is a large choice of restaurants serving international dishes -- Indonesian, French, and Greek to name a few -- as well as the more familiar pizza and pasta; and vegetarians are well catered for. The Dutch eat early though, and few restaurants remain open after 10.30pm.

While the Dutch might not share their southern European counterparts’ attitude towards late dining, they do enjoy their love of idle chatter in bars and cafes. And Amsterdam’s “brown cafes,” traditional, old-style bars so-called because of the color of the walls stained by years of cigarette smoke, are delightful -- and plentiful! Once you’re nestled in one of these cozy, intimate bars with a witbier (white beer, usually served with lemon) you might find it difficult to move back onto the street. So just sit back and marvel at the old, wonderful memorabilia adorning the walls, or pick a window through which to watch the city folk go by on their bicycles.

Whether you stay for two days or ten, Amsterdam has enough to keep the visitor entertained, amused, and interested: a small city with wonders on a big scale.

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