Details or Sample:
Dealing With Garden Pests

Try not to get too preoccupied about ethical decisions between organic and synthetic pest control formulae at this point. First, read through the effective treatments of specific garden pests to see why they work, and only then begin to think about the possibilities of organic or non-organic solutions. Bear in mind the relative adverse effects, ecologically, of using synthetics – their adverse effects may be considerable, or they may not – and then consider what is the best protection for the survival of various types of flora. Organic formulae will always be preferable, but proprietary solutions also have their place in specific circumstances.

Fungicides

Fungicides bring some form of control over malignant parasites. Although not pests in the form of something like Carrot Fly, fungal attacks can also be eliminated or controlled via direct action with fungicides. So let´s take a brief look at fungicides, before moving onto insecticides and dealing with specific pests.

Apply fungicides in a canny manner. These particular chemical formulations, designed to prevent or halt the attack of fungal diseases on plants, are toxic mainly to the germinating spores and developing threads – called hyphae - of fungi. More preventative and protective than curative, they need to be applied immediately you spot a problem, just as soon as symptoms present themselves. Leave it too long and you´ll find it hard to get your plant back to its former health. Take quick action and most plants will take advantage of your intervention and restore themselves to full strength.

It is possible to apply fungicides in a water-based spray or a powder sprinkle form. Whichever form you choose, the absolute priority is to comprehensively cover all of the affected plant´s surfaces, not forgetting the undersides of leaves in order to provide full protection. Fungicides work a little differently from insecticides and they really must come into direct contact with the attacking fungi in order to be fully effective.

However applied, systemic insecticides and fungicides are leached into the essential tissues and sap of the plant being treated, so as to overcome the infection from within the plant itself. Never forget that fungicides will be, to some extent, toxic to other forms of life other than parasites. Animals, insects, fish and even humans can suffer from improper use of fungicide sprays and powders.

Viral Diseases

Fungi don´t account for all diseases found in flora. Viral diseases are fairly indiscriminate about what they choose to plague. They will effect stunted growth, resulting in bad-looking specimen plants and fruits. If they get a real hold, the only option is to grub out and burn the poor victims. Viruses are far less likely to take root if proper cultivation methods are adopted and healthy, hardy stock is chosen in the first place. Good stock can have its own inbuilt resistance to many diseases. Good cultivation can also be an excellent defense against the arrogant frontal attacks of numerous viruses; they are not always as tough as they make out and will fade away when confronted by correct cultivation. Keeping insect pests under control pays dividends as several virus diseases can become uncontrollable through vectors like aphids carrying the disease from plant to plant. Cut down on pests and your viruses will be restricted. Which leads us onto our main theme: controlling pests!

Insecticides

Insecticides, organic or not, are the most effective way of controlling garden pests. Virtually all gardens, whether ornamental, fruit, herb or crop bearing, will need some kind of insecticide attention.

Ensure you examine plants and crops as often as possible for parasites. The sooner you spot them, the better the possible treatments will be. Parasites will proliferate given good growing conditions and especially in cases of intensive cultivation. Vigorous growth promoted by the right kind of culture along with correct placing of plants and effective garden hygiene will give a certain measure of protection against parasites, but when outbreaks occur, early use of insecticides is absolutely essential.

Get at insect pests as soon as you see them; they will be loving their succulent food source and will get out of control in no time. All insecticides, by their nature, are poisonous to an extent. The safest for flora and fauna are those based on organic plant substances. Derris (or rotenone), pyrethrum (or pyrethin) and quassia are organic and excel on food crops and in the greenhouse, while protecting children and pets from danger.

The timing of the application of insecticides is critical because insecticides are specifically produced to kill insects on external contacted or when ingested or inhaled. If not applied at the right time and in the correct manner, insecticides can also kill off pollinating and predatory insects, like bees and ladybirds. Always refer to the label to ascertain correct procedure and application.

Pest Control

Don´t forget the essential prerequisites of thorough soil cultivation and reduction of weeds before resorting to insecticides. Pull up weeds and do not leave plant debris scattered about the place.

Take obvious safety precautions when applying insecticides, such as facial and hand protection. Make sure you only apply at the right times for edible produce; normally insecticides should not be applied close to harvest. Keep products well out of reach of children and animals. Also, keep containers well marked. Always, always, clean out thoroughly spray guns and receptacles if they are likely to be used for other purposes.

Please note that BHC, frequently referred to below, is simply a common use name for an organochloride pesticide generally containing DDT, dieldrin, heptachlor and chlordane. Check with your supplier that his or her product is genuinely BHC based, without any cancer concerns.

Pest Control A-Z

Apple Sucker
Attacks: apples
Signs: petals are withered
Solution: lightly spray with BHC style proprietary product, fenitrothion or dimethoate once petals have shed

Bean Weevil
Attacks: beans
Signs: semi-circular notches in leaves
Solution: dust on BHC style proprietary product or spray on fenitrothion with younger plants

Blackfly
Attacks: nasturtiums, honeysuckle and bean plants
Signs: colonies infest new growth, leading to stunted growth and damaged buds
Solution: mist with primicarb or pyrethrum

Cabbage Root Fly
Attacks: more all less all brassicas
Signs: immature plants wilting and look for maggots consuming roots
Solution: probably start again but ensure that all new seedlings are well powdered with pirimiphos-methyl

Capsid Bugs
Attacks: trees and shrubs that fruit as well as many herbaceous plants
Signs: holes in leaves and fruit
Solution: mist with sprayer using BHC style proprietary product or malathion

Carrot Fly
Attacks: this particularly annoying pest targets carrots
Signs: the maggots of this pest erode the roots
Solution: utilize an insecticide seed-dressing before planting out

Caterpillars
Attacks: many flowers, vegetables, fruit shrubs and hedges
Signs: very easily spotted, these critters go to town on eating leaves
Solution: mist or dust with derris

Codling Moth
Attacks: pears and apples
Signs: grubs lurking in the fruit
Solution: wait until early to mid summer and then spray with fenitrothion, repeat after four weeks

Cutworms
Attacks: our favorite summer edibles: beetroot, brassicas, lettuce and flowers generally
Signs: stem attack
Solution: turn a good amount of BHC style proprietary product into soil surrounding affected plants

Earwigs
Attacks: dahlias and chrysanthemums
Signs: holes in both flowers and leaves
Solution: spray plants with BHC style proprietary product and dust surrounding soil with a BHC style proprietary product

Flea Beetles
Attacks: wallflowers and brassicas
Signs: tiny craters on the surface of leaves
Solution: sprinkle seedlings with BHC style proprietary product or derris powder

Greenfly
Attacks: vegetables, roses, flowers, trees and bushes producing fruit
Signs: colonies infest new sprouts
Solution: mist liberally with derris, malathion, pyrethrum or nicotine

Leaf Hoppers
Attacks: potatoes, roses and fruit trees
Signs: faded patches on leaves
Solution: spray regularly (once every two weeks) with BHC style proprietary product, malathion or nicotine

Leaf Miners
Attacks: shrubs and flowers
Signs: the larvae tunnel through the tissue of leaves and cobweb-like gossamer effects will be easily observable
Solution: pluck off all affected leaves immediately and burn off, spray remaining plant with BHC style proprietary product

Leather Jackets
Attacks: grass, lawns in particular
Signs: obvious brown patches, pull them up and you will find gray grubs around the roots
Solution: saturate soil with pirimiphos-methyl

Mealy Bugs
Attacks: greenhouse plants
Signs: small creamy oval pests embalmed in wax and resting on leaves
Solution: drench with formothion or malathion

Onion Fly
Attacks: onions, shallots, garlic
Signs: grubs in bulbs, wilting leaves
Solution: liberally sprinkle calomel over soil just after sowing

Pea Moth
Attacks: peas
Signs: maggots in the pod
Solution: as flowers bloom, spray with fenitrothion

Raspberry Beetle
Attacks: raspberries, blackberries, loganberries
Signs: grubs eating the fruit
Solution: wait for fruit to half ripen, giving off a pinkish hue, and spray with derris

Red Spider
Attacks: fruit trees and shrubs, tomatoes and vines, proliferating in greenhouses
Signs: red mites presenting themselves on undersides of leaves, top sides will often appear mottled
Solution: drench thoroughly with derris, dimethoate or malathion

Root Aphid
Attacks: asters, pot plants and lettuces
Signs: wilting leaves
Solution: dilute malathion and water well around roots

Sawfly
Attacks: apples and plums, rabidly when got a hold
Signs: look for grubs in the fruit
Solution: allow petals to fall and then spray with BHC style proprietary product as soon as possible

Scale Insects
Attacks: fruit trees, vines, shrubs
Signs: small, dark, flat insects flourishing on underside of leaves and stems
Solution: mist well with malathion

Slugs and Snails
Attacks: pretty much everywhere and everything
Signs: seedlings destroyed and massive damage to established plants
Solution: put down metaldehyde and/or methiocarb

Thrips
Attacks: love gladioli but other plants too
Signs: mottled, silvery leaves and flowers
Solution: spray with BHC style proprietary product, malathion, nicotine or derris

Tortrix Moth Caterpillars
Attacks: trees, shrubs and love apples and plums
Signs: punctured leaves stuck to each other with silver trails
Solution: flick them off or spray with BHC style proprietary product, derris or trichlorphon

Vine Weevil
Attacks: vines and greenhouse plants
Signs: nibbling around the edge of leaves
Solution: BHC style proprietary product spray

Whitefly
Attacks: numerous plants
Signs: infestation on new shoots
Solution: mist with BHC style proprietary product, malathion or pyrethrum

Winter Moth
Attacks: fruit trees
Signs: at caterpillar stage, eat leaves and fruit
Solution: wait for buds to open and spray with derris, trichlorphon or malathion

Wireworm
Attacks: vegetables and flowers
Signs: larvae tunnel into roots
Solution: apply BHC style proprietary product to soil

Woodlice
Attacks: a mass of plants
Signs: roots and leaves eaten in a fairly irregular manner
Solution: find nest and sprinkle with ant killer solution

Woolly Aphid
Attacks: apples
Signs: a creamy fluff on branches
Solution: get onto it quickly – spray on malathion or BHC style proprietary product

To Sum Up

Look out for signs of pests and identify them as soon as you can. Based on the identification of the pest, decide on the correct timing for treatment and select the correct solution.

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